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Hogada Ta Hak Ya Bum

By Priscilla Farro

From the book "De Leij - Culinary Art of Kashmir" by Shyam Rani Kilam and S. S. Kaul Kilam

Website: http://koausa.org/Cookbook/

It means "Dried Fish with 'Karam' Sag or dried Water-lily Stems"

. Dried Fish is available freely in Kashmir. Smaller Fish are dried whole in sun and are called 'Raze Hogada'. Bigger ones, after slitting open their bellies and discarding their Innards, are pressed flat and dried in sun. These are called 'Pacha Hogada'. In fish markets, mostly in cities and towns near sea shores in India, dried whole fishes, and also fishes cut into pieces, are available freely. Those, who get used to eat it, like its appetizing odour. They greatly relish it, when cooked alone or in combination with 'Hak' or 'Bum', in Kashmir Dried Lotus and Water-lily Stems, got from lakes etc., in Kashmir, are called 'Bum', and in Hindi 'Kamal ke Nal'

Ingredients

250 gm Dried Fish ('Hogada')
125 gm 'Hak' ('Karam Sag') or 'Bum'
1/2 cup Mustard Oil
1 tsp Red Chili Powder
1/2 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp Turmeric
A pinch of Asafoetida
10 gms 'Vari Masala' or 1/2 tsp 'Garam Masala'

Method:

1. The fins of Dried Fish are cut and skins scraped clean.
2. Any dry Innards found in 'Raza Hogada' are also scrapped off.
3. These are then roasted on a smokeless flame, or on live charcoals, washed and cleaned in hot water twice or thrice, and cut into desired pieces.
4. 'Hak' leaves are sorted, after discarding coarse stems, withered, stained or insect-eaten portions, and then washed.
5. If 'Bum' is to be cooked with Dried Fish, it is cut into 3" or 4" lengths, and soaked in hot water before cooking for 1/2 an hour.
6. Thus after reconstituting the dry 'Bum', extra water is squeezed out by hand.

7. In a 'Kadahi', heat oil on medium flame, and when foam disappears, add half a litre of water, the salt, turmeric, chili powder and asafoetida.
8. Bring to boil and add prepared dried fish pieces and sorted 'hak' leaves or the prepared 'bum'.
9. Turn and stir with a ladle and cook for half an hour, to soften the fish and the 'hak' or 'bum'.
10. Then add crushed 'vari masala' or 'garam masala'.
11. Serve with plain cooked rice.

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